The Old Town of Warsaw as it stands today is a result of a meticulous restoration effort after World War II. During the Warsaw Uprising in August 1944, more than 85% of Warsaw’s historic center was destroyed by Nazi troops. Photo by Sergii Figurnyi
By Bryan Straub
Located in the heart of Central Europe, Warsaw is Poland’s modern, thriving capital city. Rebuilt after its near-total destruction in World War II and revitalized since the collapse of communism, Warsaw today boasts the tallest building in the European Union, a modern and efficient public transit system, an extensive network of parks and public green space, and Europe’s deepest indoor diving pool. Voters in the European Best Destinations 2023 contest recently named the city as the most attractive tourist destination in Europe. Warsaw invites travelers and residents alike to visit its diverse museums, historic and cultural sites, and many excellent restaurants. Embassy Warsaw is at the center of this vibrant metropolis and is taking on new challenges of its own, sustaining the American bilateral relationship with Poland and responding to Russia’s brutal, full-scale invasion of Ukraine.
“Warsaw is a post with purpose, where you can observe the direct impact of your talents and skills on the U.S. national interest and our mission,” said Deputy Chief of Mission Daniel Lawton. “Our American and locally employed staff are dedicated, knowledgeable, and flexible, must-haves for a post that has seen a sharp increase in activity and visitors since Russia’s further invasion of Ukraine.”
The Vistula River links modern Poland’s most renowned cities. No longer a major commercial artery, the river’s course through Warsaw is defined instead by a new riverside promenade featuring bike paths, lounge chairs, pop-up refreshment stands, music, and more. On the far bank of the Vistula in the Praga neighborhood, sandy beaches beckon from the start of summer, offering children of all ages the chance to cool off on hot days or enjoy picnics with a stunning skyline view. Overseeing all the fun is the symbol of the city: the Mermaid of Warsaw. With her sword and shield raised in defense of Varsovians, one can find her likeness on Warsaw’s coat-of-arms as well as in statues and monuments throughout the city.
Modern Warsaw grew from humble origins as a fishing village on the banks of the Vistula River. In the late 16th century, the Polish King Sigismund III Vasa and his court decamped from Krakow for a fresh start downstream, halfway between their former home on Wawel Hill and the other major capital of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth, Vilnius. Warsaw expanded in importance and wealth, with the monarch and court remodeling the city in the latest fashion, first importing Italian renaissance artists and architects, and later drawing on Saxon, French, and neoclassical influences. On the outskirts of the city at Wilanow, Poland’s rulers built an impressive Baroque retreat, which survived the tumult of later centuries and is today a major visitor attraction. The Royal Castle, perched above the river in Warsaw’s old town, is the symbol of the city’s rebirth, painstakingly rebuilt from the ashes of Nazi Germany’s firebombing. The castle has provided a poignant backdrop for major speeches by U.S. presidents, including two in the past year by President Joe Biden: first in March 2022 following Russia’s renewed invasion of Ukraine, and most recently in late February, to mark the one-year anniversary of that full-scale invasion.
From 1795 to 1918, Poland was carved up and absorbed by the Russian, Prussian, and Austro-Hungarian empires. During this period, Warsaw remained a center of resistance to outside rule, first against Prussian domination, then after the establishment of Congress Poland in 1815, against Russian influence. Warsaw’s Jewish community continued to grow during the partition period, reaching one-third of the city’s population by 1846. Tragically, much of Warsaw was destroyed in the occupation of the city during WWII by Nazi Germany. Half of the Holocaust’s victims were Polish Jews, with Warsaw’s thriving pre-war community nearly all murdered, and non-Jewish Poles suffering immensely under occupation. Many of those who did survive fled in the aftermath of the war. Today, a world-class museum, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, memorializes the vital contributions of Polish Jews over the past 1000 years. It stands inside the former boundaries of the Warsaw Ghetto, where residents staged a brave uprising 80 years ago, the largest such grassroots resistance effort by Jews during the war.
Poles set about meticulously restoring Warsaw to its pre-war splendor beginning in the 1950s. Warsaw’s old town, reconstructed in its original renaissance style, is a major attraction for visitors and pays homage to famous Poles, including Nicolaus Copernicus, Frederic Chopin, and Marie Sklodowska–Curie. In addition, there are monuments acknowledging the terrible legacy of the early 20th century and honoring the heroes who stood against fascism.
Today, nearly 2 million people—5% of the nation’s approximately 38 million residents—live in Warsaw. Poland has experienced great progress and development since the end of communism, enjoying the benefits of a 28-year period of uninterrupted economic expansion prior to the pandemic. The country boasts a high standard of living and a skilled, well-educated workforce, while the cost of living remains lower than in most other European countries. Warsaw attracts the country’s best and brightest to study at its prestigious universities and to work for leading companies operating there. Public transport in the city is inexpensive and reliable, with a further network of high-speed rail and air connections fanning out across the country and the continent. An evolving network of paths, trails, and car-free areas—plus Warsaw’s relatively flat topography—make this big city easy to explore on two wheels or two feet.
The dining scene is affordable and diverse. In addition to Poland’s traditional kielbasa and pierogi, the city offers a broad range of international, vegetarian, and vegan cuisine. Warsaw has been named one of the top vegan cities in Europe, with dedicated restaurants and meal and grocery delivery options widely available. A close affinity with the United States and the United Kingdom means English has become the second language of choice in the post-Soviet era. In Warsaw and other larger cities, English is widely spoken professionally and on the street, and American television shows and films are widely appreciated.
Poland is a long-term, staunch U.S. Ally on NATO’s eastern flank, a strong and growing economic partner, and a proud nation with deep, historical—and familial—links to the United States. In response to entreaties from Polish pianist and composer Ignacy Paderewski, President Woodrow Wilson made the reestablishment of a Polish state one of his Fourteen Points for the post-World War I peace settlement. Traveling through Warsaw today you will find avenues, circles, and squares named after Presidents George Washington, Woodrow Wilson, Herbert Hoover, and Ronald Reagan. Hoover is remembered for his role in post-war reconstruction, while Reagan—whose statue stands across the street from the embassy—is remembered for his moral support to Poland and the Solidarity movement. Shared links between the United States and Poland go back even further in history—Polish military leaders, including Tadeusz Kosciuszko, fought in the American Revolution before returning home to fight for freedom there.
The American alliance with Poland is based on shared democratic values and the friendship and trust between the American and Polish peoples. Over the past three decades, the United States has led efforts to bring Poland into NATO, supported Poland’s accession and deeper integration with the European Union, and built upon shared history to forge new economic, cultural, and diplomatic links. Cooperation and mutual goals have grown even stronger more recently in response to Russia’s further invasion of Ukraine.
The Polish people have welcomed millions of refugees from Ukraine since February 2022 and remain committed to providing humanitarian and material support for their neighbors. Many Poles personally took Ukrainians into their homes, a gesture that led U.S. Ambassador to Poland Mark Brzezinski to praise Poland as a “humanitarian superpower.”
In his second speech in Warsaw, Feb. 21, Biden reflected on the combined strength, unity, and resolve despite the enormous challenges posed by Russia’s war of aggression. He called on the two nations to “take strength and capacity of this coalition and apply it to lifting up the lives of people everywhere, improving health, growing prosperity, preserving the planet, building peace and security, treating everyone with dignity and respect.”
The visit was also a chance to reflect on the growing cooperation in the energy sector, especially civil nuclear energy, strong bilateral defense cooperation, and the importance of democratic values to the bilateral partnership.
Embassy Warsaw’s growing, medium-to-large-size post offers fascinating challenges and exceptional opportunities for professional growth. A dozen non-State agencies use Poland as a hub to achieve goals in the region. Serving in Warsaw means having opportunities to work on high-profile issues such as defense cooperation, trade and investment, clean energy, rule of law, and media freedom.
Warsaw’s consular section is also growing and changing. Poland became a visa waiver country in 2019, shortly before the pandemic slowed global travel. Now, Russia’s war in Ukraine and the challenges of processing visas in Moscow and Minsk have led to Mission Poland becoming the leading processor of immigrant visas for Russian and Belarusian nationals while taking on additional American citizen services and non-immigrant visa work from those embassies as well as Embassy Kyiv. Embassy Warsaw and the U.S. Consulate General in Krakow enjoy an extremely close and mutually supportive relationship, with the latter serving as the front line of responsibility for the main border crossing points with Ukraine and playing a central role for many high-level visits. This role has afforded Warsaw-based officers many opportunities for temporary duty in Poland’s south.
In addition to hosting Biden twice, Mission Poland welcomed visits by Vice President Kamala Harris and the second gentleman, Secretary of State Antony Blinken, U.S. Ambassador to the United Nations Linda Thomas-Greenfield, many other cabinet secretaries, and facilitated engagements for more than 120 members of Congress in the past year.
“This is a place where one can join a positive work environment, immerse oneself in a welcoming local culture, and make a real difference,” Economic Counselor Heather Rogers noted.
Bryan Straub is a public diplomacy officer at Embassy Warsaw.
